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“The roof of the steppe”. What discoveries await tourists in the Saryarka mountains

15 October 2021

We continue to talk about unexplored locations that deserve the attention of tourists. Last time we talked about the village of Egindybulak in the Karaganda region, which attracts with its natural beauty. In this article we will talk about the village of Shabanbai bi and Mount Aksoran – the highest point of Saryarka.

In the Karaganda region there is a tiny village with a population of less than a thousand people. Here is the highest point of Saryarka (the so-called Kazakh melkosopochnik). It is from it that a magnificent panorama opens with perfect visibility for a hundred kilometers around. And in good weather, you can also see the silhouette of the famous Bektau-Ata – volcanic massif, which is located 120 kilometers away, on the territory of the Northern Balkhash region.

We are talking about Mount Aksoran with a height of 1,565 meters. Despite its relatively low altitude, due to its location among the plains, this mountain range is also called the “Roof of the Steppes”. The president of the historical and geographical society “Avalon” Vitaly Shuptar told about how this name appeared.

“If Pamir or Tibet is commonly called the “Roof of the World,” then Aksoran deserves the title of “Roof of the Steppes,” said a German named Michael, who climbed Aksoran with us. At that moment we were about a hundred meters from the top. I liked his comparison and found it very apt.

Then I used this expression many times as an epithet in newspaper and magazine articles, and it “caught on”, became the second name of this mountain peak (and sometimes the entire oasis). Now it is used in their travel notes by both Kazakhstani and foreign travelers,” Vitaly shared.

Directly to climb to the top of Aksoran, you need to climb only 600 meters, but the path is not the easiest, and it will take from six to eight hours to fully climb back and forth.

“Technically, the ascent is not difficult. Thorny bushes are more exhausting, through which you have to periodically wade. At the same time, the trails to the top from the Torkora and Shaban tracts are marked: markings are painted on the trees, plus stone tours are installed,” says Vitaly Shuptar, who, together with like-minded people, has put a lot of effort into putting this area on Google maps.

Mount Aksoran is an ancient extinct volcano consisting mainly of sedimentary and igneous rocks. The entire mountain range is part of the Kyzylarai State Nature Reserve. So a walk in these places is a picturesque hike among the pine forest, where you can meet moose, wild boars. It is also home to extremely rare red Book animals of Kazakhstan:

birds – black stork, golden eagle, owl;
mammals are the Kazakh argali, as well as predatory lynx and manul.

These cats are extremely careful and try to stay away from humans, but they have sharp teeth and prehensile claws. Keep that in mind.

As for the Kazakh argali, or, as it is also called, “mountain sheep”, it is also listed in the Red List of the International Union for Conservation of Nature as a rare species in a state close to a vulnerable position.

The entire territory of the Kyzylarai mountain range is quite large, about 15 by 25 kilometers.

Interesting fact.

Local pine forests growing on granite rocks are of interest to scientists as the southernmost place of pine growth in the Central Kazakhstan ecosystem, bordering on desert expanses.

The nature reserve was organized in 1986 and approved by the decree of the Government of the Republic of Kazakhstan in 2005 indefinitely.

Here you can also touch the historical heritage dating back to the Bronze Age. In general, the Aktogay district became widely known around the world after academician Alkey Margulan studied the historical monument of the Bronze Age – the unique granite tombs of Begaza in the middle of the last century.

In addition to tombs, here you can stumble upon stone sculptures in the form of human figures of the Turkic period.

It is worth noting that this area is also part of the Great Silk Road, which ran along the local Tokyraun River.

Interesting fact.

An outstanding political figure, the leader of the Alash movement, Alikhan Bukeikhanov, was born in this area.

Among other things, here you can find rock carvings of the Bronze and Early Iron Age near the Zheltau mountains and an interesting natural formation – the Aulie cave.

“A small ascent leads to this cave away from the path leading to the clearing in the Aulie tract. A cave is, of course, a big word. It is rather a grotto, small, but rather peculiar in shape. Obviously, that is why the cave has gained fame as a place where those who cannot have children come in order to change this situation. This is all the influence of ancient fertility cults, which is found in many places in Kazakhstan,” says Vitaly Shuptar.

Why do foreigners come here?

Well, in the end, it is impossible not to mention the village of Shabanbai bi. It is named after the famous Kazakh biya – Shabanbai Kalkamanuly. The village is located at the very foot of Mount Aksoran. This is a place where ecotourism based on local communities is developing. Tourists are offered accommodation in the houses of residents of the village of Shabanbai bi. But the most interesting thing is the opportunity to get acquainted with simple rural life, taste dishes of Kazakh national cuisine: beshbarmak, kuyrdak, pilaf.

“I first came to Kyzylarai during the Saryarka Bronze Ring bicycle expedition in August 2008. A month later, I started working in a project for the development of eco-tourism. In response to our offer to work with tourists, the residents of Shabanbai bi actively joined it. Since then, I have been to Kyzylarai very often.

I was struck by the hospitality of the villagers. Of course, you won’t surprise anyone with our hospitality in Kazakhstan, but here I immediately felt as comfortable as possible. Well, when they began not only to rest in these parts, but also to work, they were pleasantly surprised by the initiative of the authorities and residents of Shabanbai bi,” recalls the president of the historical and geographical society “Avalon” Vitaly Shuptar.

“Initially, we tried to develop and promote this direction for foreign tourists. But over the past couple of years, Kazakhstanis have also started to come here. Of course, this is not a typical vacation for our compatriots, because there are no reservoirs here, and this moment is often fundamental for our people.

But for those who are interested in untouched nature, mountain walks, rural life, Kazakh cuisine and a very clearly presented history, this is just a godsend. Locals are still working with tourists. And in any of the guest houses you can taste anything. As for me, here is the most delicious beshbarmak in Kazakhstan,” he assures.

“There are several guest houses in Shabanbai bi now (the number of farms working with tourists varies from one to seven in different seasons). The owners of some of them can help you to see the surroundings, go to the mountains, ride horses. And in winter, you can also use a sleigh. In general, the tourist service is limited to this. But it’s definitely worth coming here,” Vitaly Shuptar summed up.

Well, you can get to these places by bus from the village of Aktogay to the village of Shabanbai bi. The way to the foot of Mount Aksoran is about 300 kilometers from Karaganda. You can also drive your own car, but keep in mind that the road there is not of the best quality.

Информация взята с сайта Tengritravel.kz

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